Saturday, October 15, 2011

ATHENS

September saw us travelling to Greece. The principal reason was to spend two weeks walking on two Greek Islands - Naxos and Tinos. We left early to catch the Central Mountain Air flight to Vancouver where we connected with an Air Canada Calgary flight. Lufthansa then took us to Frankfurt where we connected with another Lufthansa flight to Athens. We arrived just after mid day having travelled a total of 20 hours.

Our time on the islands was going to be spent doing self guided walks. We had found out about this on the web with Walking Plus. An English couple had set up the organization to provide both guided and self guided walks on the islands of Naxos, Tinos and Amorgos. In the self guided version, they arrange accommodation, take the luggage from the start of a day's walk to the finish and provide detailed walking notes and maps. This meant that one only had to carry a small back pack on the walk. This worked out very well.

You can see a larger version of any photograph by simply clicking the mouse once on the image. Another click off the photograph returns you to the text.

As you are probably aware Greece has been having all manners of problems, strikes and riots being the most newsworthy. These issues affected us to some degree but we always managed to work around the disruptions. Athens Airport had been greatly upgraded a while ago at the time of the Olympic Games and is quite a show piece. In connection with that a new rail link was developed that gets you to the centre of Athens in quick time. The new line links to the city Metro system and we were able to get fairly close to our hotel. We were left with a short taxi ride. We had read about Athens taxis and had a bit of trouble with the taxi we chose. The drivers are a little reluctant to switch on the meter and that was true in our case. However, we prevailed and got the meter running. The other trick they play is to take a long way round and we think that happened to us but we did reach the Hotel Moka eventually. We had booked this hotel on the advice of Trip Advisor. The reviews were good, the only reservation people mentioned was that it was located in a red light district that could be off putting. We had no trouble from that aspect and the hotel was well priced and the staff helpful.

We had two things to accomplish that day, first
to buy bus tickets to take us to Delphi and the second to collect ferry tickets to get us to Naxos. We had became aware that the next day the buses, metro and taxis were all going on strike. So we arranged to spend that day looking around Athens on strike day as we could do all we wanted by walking and visit Delphi the day after when we could get the local bus to the bus terminal. Having successfully bought the bus tickets, we found the ferry office and collected the ferry tickets which we had ordered online. We were now close to the Parliament building where the famous guards with pom-pom shoes protect the building.


On our way to the ferry office we came across some people setting up balloons in a city square. We weren't quite sure what the objective was.

Later we passed by again and think the balloons were a sort of art exhibit.


Up early the next day we started out on our Athens tour. We had some guided tour notes from Walking Plus which were going to take us on a circuit around the Acropolis. Three diversions were available, up to the Acropolis itself, into the New Acropolis Museum and into the Ancient Agora.

On our way to our starting point on the circuit we came across a covered market with all kinds of meat, fish, vegetables and fruit.


A fine display of sausages.


Rabbit is a feature of the Greek menu


As is octopus


And there were many different fishes for sale





You should be able to follow the circuit if you enlarge the map

Our tour started at the Monastiraki Metro station. It is very common in Athens to see ancient buildings side by side with modern buildings. Outside the Metro station was the Pantanassa Church.


Pantanassa Church that belonged to the monastery (monastiraki), thought to have been built in the 10th Century AD.

Our circuit took us anti-clockwise around the Rock of the Acropolis. We got an early view as we progressed. The crowd of people you can see in the photo were at the entry to the Acropolis and were nearly all cruise ship passengers who we were to run into a little later on. There must have been a number of ships in port that day.


Our first view of the Acropolis, quite a sight


There are a number of hills in the Athens area, the most prominent is Lykavittos Hill, reaching 910 feet above the City.

A view of the Acropolis and Lykavittos Hill,


The monument to Caius Julius Antiochus Philapappus on Filopappos Hill south of the Acropolis, with a tourist. Built in AD 114 -116


A decorative feature on a path on Filopappos Hill


Thought to be Socrates Prison on Filopappos Hill (perhaps)

We broke away from the circuit we were following to visit the New Acropolis Museum. Officially opened in mid-2009, this is a magnificent place. Packed with ancient sculptures and many other items, it provides a very complete understanding of the buildings and structures on the Acropolis that can be seen directly above the Museum through large glass windows. Much is made of the frieze that ran around an interior building inside the Parthenon and, rather pointedly, there is an empty room awaiting the return of the "marbles" that were "stolen" and sold to the British Museum by Lord Elgin. It is quite obvious that the Greeks remain very upset. It was lunch time by now and we ate at the very pleasant restaurant on an upper floor, again with the view of the Acropolis unmissable through the windows. We ordered tomato soup and a salad. It was quite a shock to take the first spoonful of cold soup when you expect it to be hot.


The new Acropolis Museum (no photographs inside)

We deviated away again from our circuit to go up to the Acropolis to see the Parthenon and associated buildings. We caught up with the large crowd of cruise ship passengers. As you will have seen earlier it is quite a climb on to the top on the rock. In many ways it resembles a building site because there is a large amount of reconstruction going on.

The Parthenon on the Acropolis


A detail of the East Pediment


A "to prove one of us was there" photographs


Another view of the Parthenon


The Erechtheion (built 437 - 432 BC), situated on the most sacred site of the Acropolis. It is said to be where Poseidon left his trident in a rock and Athena's olive tree sprouted, in their battle for possession of the City.


The Porch of the Caryatids on the Erechtheion. These statues of women were used in place of columns are, in fact, copies. Four of the originals can be seen in the New Acropolis Museum.


The New Acropolis Museum and the Theatre of Dionysos from the Acropolis.


The Temple of Olympian Zeus. Building started in the 6th Century BC and was finished 650 years later. It was larger than the Parthenon.


The Kallimarmaro Stadium from the Acropolis. Built in 330 BC for the Panathenaic Games, it later fell into disuse. It was restored in 1895 in time for the first of the modern Olympic Games in 1896. In 2004 it hosted the finish of the Olympic Marathon and the Archery Competition

The Parliament Buildings from the Acropolis



The Temple of Hephaestus in the Ancient Agora (qv) from the Acropolis. It is the best preserved temple in Greece


The partly restored Herodes Atticus Theatre below the Acropolis, a modern pop group had been rehearsing that day


The Dionysus Theatre which was the site of Classical Greece's drama competitions, where the tragedies and comedies by the great playwrights (Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides) were first performed

We came down off the Acropolis to continue our circuit reaching the region under the north face of the Acropolos. Here we arrived at the Roman Agora built in the first Century AD. An agora was an open "place of assembly" where citizens would gather for military duty or to hear statements of the ruling king or council. Later, the Agora also served as a marketplace where merchants kept stalls or shops to sell their goods. The term Agoraphobia stems from the word agora. It is a defined as a morbid fear of having a panic attack in a situation that is perceived to be difficult (or embarrassing) from which to escape (due to the crowds).

The main feature is the Tower of the Winds. This is an octagonal tower built in the 6th Century BC and it has the personification of the winds on each side. Inside there was a water clock run by a stream from the Acropolis.

The Tower of Winds in the Roman Agora

The North West wind, Skiron.

A pomegranate tree behind the Tower of Winds

We had now reached the point on the circuit where we had started earlier. Here is situated the Ancient Agora. It was Athen's marketplace, founded in the 6th Century BC, and was the heart of the city for 1200 years. It was the centre of all civic activities including politics, commerce, philosophy, religion, arts and athletics. It was the place where Socrates addressed his public and where St. Paul preached.

The reconstructed Middle Stoa (market place), containing a covered walkway and rows of columns.

Inside the Middle Stoa

A featured sculpture, one of many

This Byzantine Church was built in the 11th Century AD over the the ruins of the Nymphaion, an elaborate 2nd Century AD fountain house.

Our last view of the Acropolis from the Ancient Agora.

By now it was getting late so we had a meal and got ourselves ready for the next day, a visit to Delphi.

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